Hawkridges in Hong Kong

Hong Kong has been ever present on our list of places to visit whilst living in Shanghai. Sam managed to get there for the Sevens in March, but saw little of the city itself, so has been keen to go back. 

As a result of the recent high pollution levels in Shanghai we had been looking to get away to some cleaner air for a few days, Hong Kong seemed ideal.  The air was cleaner and it was a good 7-10 degrees warmer.

Our hotel was situated in the Mid Levels on Hong Kong Island, right next to the small but free zoo.   

       

We spent the first day exploring the zoo and mid level area, including Possession Point, where the British Flag was first planted, before catching the famous Star Ferry to Kowloon.

                                     

                                       

  We walked to the Peninsula Hotel, famous for its afternoon teas, and had a quick wander inside to look at the Christmas decorations. 

      

     

In the afternoon we caught the ferry back to Hong Kong island and despite all the walking we had already done, decided to get the tram up Victoria Peak to watch the lights come on.  As we got closer to the tram station we saw what looked like a protest but turned out to be a queue for the tram!  

       

We queued for just over an hour before heading up the peak.  The queue was so civilized that we suddenly saw why people think of Hong Kong as being very different to mainland China.  I was all ready, elbows out to hold my place but there was no need at all.  

The tram ride was brilliant and the views from the top were amazing.  

       

       

We discovered a lovely local restaurant and had a birds nest noodle dish.  

       

After supper we headed back to the tram only to find the queue was even worse than the way up!  So we decided to walk!  Off down a well lit and steeply downhill road we confidently strode only to discover that we then had to head off down a pretty much vertical staircase and slope in the pitch black following the inbuilt gps on Sam's iPad to make sure we went the right way.  I was petrified of someone leaping out and slitting our throats but tried to appear confident and in control for the boys.  It turns out I didn't do that very well, as when we reached the bottom William turned to me and remarked that we were lucky to be alive!  Finally we made it back to our hotel, throats intact but leg muscles beyond repair, and collapsed in to our beds.

The intention had been to have a restful day and early night on our first day as on the second day we headed to Disneyland for the day. However, despite aching legs it was with great excitement that we set off, following a traditional dim sum breakfast.

                                         

       

I was the least excited of the four of us.  Despite enjoying theme parks I have never had a desire to go to Disney and my worst fears were that Disneyland Hong Kong would be a clash of the worst bits of American and Chinese cultures.  My fears were unfounded and the day was fantastic.  We were on our feet for most of the day but the enjoyment and excitement kept tiredness at bay.  Sam was delighted to rediscover Space Mountain and both that and the runaway mine train were hits with all of the Hawkridges.  One ride which wasn't so popular was the RC Car ride.  I found it so tertifying that all of my good intentions of reassuring the boys went out of the window. I kept my eyes firmly shut the whole time and completely ignored them, great parenting!!  Fortunately Sam was rather enjoying himself and managed to look after the boys.

       

       

One of the main reasons for visiting Disney at this time of year was that we thought it would feel very Christmassy, and we were right.  It even snowed!

       

      

      

After two very long active days our final day was spent on the beach at Stanely.  Stanely is a wonderful half an hour bus ride from the centre.  The road winds along cliff tops above clean sea and beautiful beaches.  On both journeys we managed to get seats on the top deck at the front.  After a wander through the market and a coffee, we bought a picnic and spent the afternoon on the beach.

     

     

     

On our return to the centre we headed out for supper and stumbled across the mid-levels escalators.  These escalators, constructed in 1993, are the longest outdoor covered system in the world.  They were designed to provide an easier commute between Hong Kong's mountainous areas.  We jumped on one and glided up until we saw a restaurant we fancied.  It was rather surreal sitting in the restaurant seeing people 'float' past. 

                                  

       

During our train ride to the airport the next day we were all rather sad at leaving Hong Kong.  It had a feel of home about it with its double decker busses, green areas, driving on the right side, policemen and queuing.  Sam and I had explained the links Britian has with Hong Kong to the boys  and were rather pleased to hear them chatting about these, although we realised their understanding was somewhat simplified when Oliver remarked that it was nice that we were able to borrow Hong Kong and William commented that at least we gave it to China!

It's Brunch Sam, but not as you know it!

Sunday brunch is a bit of an institution here in Shanghai.  Everywhere from the top hotels to blue frog offer some sort of weekend brunch.  When Sam first heard mention of brunch he was very excited by thoughts of proper sausages, black pudding and five star fry ups in general.  However, he was brought back to earth with a bump when it was explained that firstly brunch cost around £70 per person (for a fry up?) and secondly the food on offer was a wealth of seafood, meat and vegetables and unlimited champagne and wine.  It has taken nearly three years to adjust his thinking on brunch.  

In June Anna and Antony came to stay and we suggested that they go for brunch, as it is a Shanghai experience.  Oliver's teacher recommended Jade on 36 at the Shangri-La.  Apparently food wise it is considered one of the best and they don't allow children under 12!   Anna and Ant thoroughly enjoyed it and very kindly bought us vouchers as a thank you for having them to stay.

Sam and I arrived on the dot of half past eleven and were greeted very warmly by the staff.  The maître D' showed us to our table and poured us a glass of champagne.  

                                     

She then gave us a tour of the various food stations.  There was in house smoked fish, oysters and caviar.  

      

Cold cuts and a DIY Caesar salad.  

                                      

As we rounded the corner there was a fantastic selection of seafood and pate.   

      

      

       

And then she handed us over to the chef to show us the kitchen, where there was lobster, lamb, veal, beef and a selection of vegetables!

                                       

      

        

      

Over the next three and a half hours, Sam and I worked our way around each section finishing with a port and cheese board accompanied by coffee and chocolate.

       

       

Shanghai Smog

                   

Over the last three years of living here we have been aware of the pollution problem in Shanghai and China as a whole.  We invested in air filters shortly after moving here and the boys school has an Air Quality Policy which means that they monitor pollution levels and restrict outdoor play and lessons when it hits 200 on the scale.  Therefore, 200, although hideously high, has become our benchmark for high pollution and us Shanghainese are often rather smug that we don't live in Beijing where levels have been know to reach 900!

Over the last three weeks the level has been staying up around 200, people have been complaining of headaches, sore throats and itchy eyes and parents have begun to make noises about the school investing in air filters.  The pollution flag at school has been consistently on orange or red and there has been limited outdoor play.  Then, suddenly, at the beginning of the week the index hit over 300 and the flag went purple.  Everyone was suddenly talking about hazardous levels of particles in the air and everyone began to get masks.  

Towards the end of last week the unthinkable happened, the level shot up to over 400 and looking outside the front door last night it looked like Victorian London and I half expected Jack the Ripper to be stalking around!   Sam and I cranked up the air filters and went to bed expecting more 'normal' levels in the morning.  However, when we woke up it was still over 400 and climbing.  Going to school was surreal and felt like some post- apolyptic world with people in masks and the sun barely visible.  

                               

                               

By lunchtime the pollution had actually increased so much that it was beyond measuring.  The app on Sam's phone wasn't quite sure which smiley face to assign once it had gone over 500.

                                     

Shanghia's famous river line and tall buildings were shadows of their former selves. The air smelt bad and visibility was awful.  Even inside shopping centres there was a fog of bad air.  Not being able to see a horizon felt claustrophobic and all of a sudden, despite having made a happy home in this wonderful city, we were questioning the sense of exposing the boys to such risks.  

The news of the pollution made international headlines and the Chinese government used the state owned media to attempt to save face by putting their own spin on the situation.

SMOG CLOUD SILVER LINING: CHINA STATE'S 'REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL'

In a widely criticised publication by Chinese state media, the government have tried to put a positive spin on their pollution crisis by claiming: 

1. The pollution crisis 'unifies' Chinese people... because it is so widespread

2. It is making China more equal.... because the smog is affecting both rich and poor

3. It raises citizen awareness.... and is a reminder that China is 'the factory of the world

4. Chinese people are better humoured in a crisis... and have already made up 'smog jokes'

5. The population is more educated now... they have improved knowledge of meteorology

Hopefully it was a freak occurrence as no one can remember pollution like this before, however I think we will all be a little less smug about living here compared to Beijing.  And now each morning, as well as checking the weather I check my air quality app too.  

The sky is looking blue again and we can see the sun and the occasional aeroplane. The contrast with last week is incredible.

                                    

                                    

 The levels have dropped significantly but are still hovering between 150 and 200.  High enough to be a concern and to make us consider taking a week away in the South to breathe some clean air.